‘We came for peace and quiet but discovered fiestas are an essential part of Spanish village life’

Heath Savage, who swapped the Sydney suburbs for rural life in Galicia, finds out just how important fiestas are in village life.

'We came for peace and quiet but discovered fiestas are an essential part of Spanish village life'
At every fiesta you'll find beefy blokes in skimpy dresses. Photo: H Savage.

Sydney has a reputation for being Australia’s premier party town.  Our stuffy arch rivals in Melbourne reckon we are a rowdy lot! So, we old Aussie chicas do know how to shake our stuff. That said, we came here for the quiet life: the birdsong, the breeze in the trees, the tinkling streams, all that lark. We were seriously unprepared for the vigour and enthusiasm with which this small community lets its collective hair down!

Christmas ends but the festivites continue and the year kicks off big-style with Reyes in January, celebrating the Magi. And why wouldn’t you? Gold, frankincense, myrrh, sweets and gifts?

March brings Entroido, when everyone gets up in fancy dress and parades around having a wild time.

April is the Medieval Festival in Monforte. Same format: fancy dress, booze, food, mayhem.

In May, we get Mostra de viños. This involves huge quantities of wine. ‘Nuff said.

In July we celebrate Santiago the apostle. This is a little more sedate, but you get cake.

October has Festa de Samain: more food, spookiness and Queimada, if you’re game!

November, Magosto. More wine; this time accompanied by your own body-weight in bacon and chestnuts. What’s not to like? Of course, in between these high days, there are numerous Saints’ Days. You need the rest.

READ ALSO: Going nuts! How a small town in northern Spain celebrates its walnut harvest

The traditional Galician brew of queimada, a hot punch made from orujo mixed with herbs, sugar, lemon peel, apple and coffee beans,  brewed in a special clay pot. Photo: Juan Salmoral / Flickr

Families who live year-round in nearby cities such as Lugo, Ourense, Pontevedra and Vigo come home to party. Every café is full. Our village of under 800 people can produce extraordinary events. 

This is testimony to the way that the Spanish prioritise public life: being with friends and family and having a good time is all-important. Whether they are celebrating local produce or a religious/cultural tradition, they throw everything into it.

We realized how sterile and homogenized our Australian “fiestas” have become, in contrast to these rough and ready Spanish events.

People wander around with drinks in their hands – yes, actual beers, and glasses of wine! And no-one dies! Children run about unleashed, receiving pats and sweets from strangers.

There’s usually the obligatory older gentleman, dressed as a rooster, or something “saucy”, taking his annual opportunity to get fresh with the ladies. And one truly international custom is always evident; a gang of beefy blokes in mini-dresses, charged with making sure that at least one café runs out of beer.

Adults are not corralled into roped-off areas to smoke or drink. Men stand gallantly aside to allow women use their toilets. Little kids sit on bar-stools next to elderly people, not locked away in a “children’s section” with a minder. At least one toddler shares his ice-cream with one of the local dogs, who also get to join in.

The robustness and togetherness of life in a Spanish village is still very new to us. Seeing our bank manager wander down the main street, drinking a beer, dressed as a banana, did give us a bit of a start! Being greeted like long-lost friends, by villagers we meet every day, gives us a sense of belonging.

Next year, these “dos damas Australianas” (as we are known) will participate in the fun, and get ourselves geared up. A great way to advertise our business. We already have at least four volunteers to ride the float!


Member comments

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.


Rampant branch closures and job cuts help Spain’s banks post huge earnings

Spain’s biggest banks this week reported huge profits in 2021 and cheered their return to recovery post-Covid, but ruthless cost-cutting in the form of thousands of layoffs, hundreds of branch closures and the removal of many ATMs have left customers in Spain suffering, in this latest example of ‘Capitalismo 2.0’. 

A man withdraws cash from a Santander branch in Madrid.
More than 3,500 Santander workers lost their jobs in Spain in 2021 and a further 2,000 more employees working for Santander across Europe were also laid off. Photo: PHILIPPE DESMAZES / AFP

Spanish banking giant Santander on Wednesday said it has bounced back from the pandemic as it returned to profit last year, beating analyst expectations and exceeding its pre-COVID earnings.

Likewise, Spain’s second-largest bank BBVA said on Thursday that it saw a strong rebound in 2021 following the Covid crisis, tripling its net profits thanks to a recovery in business activity.

It’s a similar story for Unicaja (€137 million profit in 2021), Caixabank (€5.2 billion profit thanks to merge with Bankia), Sabadell (€530 million profit last year), Abanca (€323 million profit) and all of Spain’s other main banks.

This may be promising news for Spain’s banking sector, but their profits have come at a cost for many of their employees and customers. 

In 2021, 19,000 bank employees lost their jobs, almost all through state-approved ERE layoffs, meant for companies struggling financially.

BBVA employees protest against layoffs in May 2021 in Madrid. Spain’s second-largest bank BBVA is looking to shed 3,800 jobs, affecting 16 percent of its staff, in a move denounced by unions as “scandalous”. (Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP)

Around 11 percent of bank branches in Spain have also been closed down in 2021 as part of Spanish banks’ attempts to cut costs, even though they’ve agreed to pay just under €5 billion in compensation.

Rampant branch closures have in turn resulted in 2,200 ATMs being removed since the Covid-19 pandemic began, even though the use of cajeros automáticos went up by 20 percent in 2021.

There are now 48,300 ATMs in Spain, levels not seen since 2001.


Apart from losses caused by the coronavirus crisis, Spain’s financial institutions have justified the lay-offs, branch closures and ATM removals under the premise that there was already a shift to online banking taking place among customers. 

But the problem has been around for longer in a country with stark population differences between the cities and so-called ‘Empty Spain’, with rural communities and elderly people bearing the brunt of it. 


Caixabank laid off almost 6,500 workers in the first sixth months of 2021. Photo: ANDER GILLENEA/AFP

Just this month, a 78-year-old Valencian man has than collected 400,000+ signatures in an online petition calling for Spanish banks to offer face-to-face customer service that’s “humane” to elderly people, spurring the Bank of Spain and even Spain’s Prime Minister Pedro Sánchez to publicly say they would address the problem.

READ MORE: ‘I’m old, not stupid’ – How one Spanish senior is demanding face-to-face bank service

It’s worth noting that between 2008 and 2019, Spain had the highest number of branch closures and bank job cuts in Europe, with 48 percent of its branches shuttered compared with a bloc-wide average of 31 percent.

Below is more detailed information on how Santander and BBVA, Spain’s two biggest banks, have reported their huge profits in 2021.


Driven by a strong performance in the United States and Britain, the bank booked a net profit of €8.1 billion in 2021, close to a 12-year high. 

It was a huge improvement from 2020 when the pandemic hit and the bank suffered a net loss of €8.7 billion after it was forced to write down the value of several of its branches, particularly in the UK. It was also higher than 2019, when the bank posted a net profit of €6.5 billion.

Analysts from FactSet were expecting profits of €7.9 billion. 

“Our 2021 results demonstrate once again the value of our scale and presence across both developed and developing markets, with attributable profit 25 per cent higher than pre-COVID levels in 2019,” said chief executive Ana Botin in a statement.

Net banking income, the equivalent to turnover, also increased, reaching €33.4 billion, compared to €31.9 billion in 2020. This dynamic was made possible by a strong increase in customer numbers, with the group now counting almost 153 million customers worldwide. 

“We have added five million new customers in the last 12 months alone,” said Botin.

Santander performed particularly well in Europe and North America, with profits doubling in constant euros compared to 2020. In the UK, where Santander has a strong presence, current profit even “quadrupled” over the same period to €1.6 billion.

Last year’s net loss was the first in Banco Santander’s history, after having to revise downwards the value of several of its subsidiaries, notably in the UK, because of COVID.

The banking giant, which cut nearly 3,500 jobs at the end of 2020, in September announced an interim shareholder payout of €1.7 billion for its 2021 results. “In the coming weeks, we will announce additional compensation linked to the 2021 results,” it said.


The group, which mainly operates in Spain but also in Latin America, Mexico and Turkey, posted profits of €4.65 billion ($5.25 billion), up from €1.3 billion a year earlier.

The result, which followed a solid fourth quarter with profits of €1.34 billion, was higher than expected, with FactSet analysts expecting a figure of €4.32 billion .

Excluding non-recurring items, such as the outcome of a restructuring plan launched last year, it generated profits of 5.07 billion euros in what was the highest figure “in 10 years”, the bank said in a statement.

In 2020, the Spanish bank saw its net profit tumble 63 percent as a result of asset depreciation and provisions taken against an increase in bad loans due to the economic fallout of the virus crisis.

“The economic recovery over the past year has brought with it a marked upturn in banking activity, mainly in the loan portfolio,” the bank explained, pointing to a reduction of the provisions put in place because of Covid.

In 2021, BBVA added a “record” 8.7 million new customers, largely due to the growth of its online activities. It now has 81.7 million customers worldwide.

The group’s net interest margins also rose 6.1 percent year-on-year to €14.7 billion, said the bank, which is undergoing a cost-cutting drive.

So far, it has axed 2,935 jobs and closed down 480 branches as the banking sector undergoes increasing digitalisation and fewer and fewer transactions are carried out over the counter.

At the end of 2020, BBVA sold its US unit to PNC Financial Services for nearly 10 billion euros and decided to reinvest some of the funds in the Turkish market.

In November, it launched a bid to take full control of its Turkish lending subsidiary Garanti, offering €2.25 billion ($2.6 billion) to buy the 50.15 percent stake it does not yet own.

The deal should be finalised in the first quarter of 2022.