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MY SPANISH CAREER

BOOKS

‘We keep a typewriter at the back for customers to punch out poems’

In this week’s instalment of My Spanish Career, The Local talks to Terry and Charlotte, the couple behind Desperate Literature, Madrid’s newest bibliophile hangout.

'We keep a typewriter at the back for customers to punch out poems'
Terry among the books at Desperate Literature. Photo: Sophia Smith Galer

After working together at the famous bookshop Shakespeare and Company in Paris, this Yorkshire poet and glamorous Frenchwoman arrived in Madrid in early summer to run the city's newest international book store.

What is the ethos behind Desperate Literature?

The website line reads, “Desperate Literature strives to be a space where good literature serves as a vehicle for dynamic cultural, linguistic and social exchange between Madrileños, extranjeros and travelers from around the world,” and this might sound like a long shot, but we hope, in our own humble way, to be doing something along these lines. 

What distinguishes you from other bookshops?

Well, we live here, in the back, so that's something a little different, we think.  Because of this, though, we want the bookshop to serve as part of the community, as a literary hub but also a place people can come for a chat or a helping hand, to drop their keys for a friend.  You become part of local life, and we really love this.  

We do lots of little things to encourage this, like inviting people to play chess or get drunk with us, and we also host passing writers and travelling book folks. We'd also like to think that our selection of books sets us apart, especially in English and French.


The international bookstore is on Calle Campomanes near Opera  Photo: Sophia Smith Galer

Tell us more about the boozy shelf?

​This is the brainchild of another of the shop's founders, Craig Walzer, and we think it came about because he got frustrated at not being able to serve any alcohol in his Greece store, Atlantis Books, and so he invented this neat trick.  

You can find Fitzgerald, Donleavy, Algren, Plato, H.S. Thompson, Joyce, and whatever we think passes, really. We're only too ready to be convinced that something qualifies…

How do you think Madrid compares to Paris, when it comes to the literary scene?

Well, we've only been here a short while and we're still settling in, so we'd be hesitant to make any grand claims, but we actually noticed something of a similarity between the two cities.  We immediately felt comfortable, surrounded by all the books and bookshops Madrid has to offer.  

There's something to be said, also, about the change that's happening in the book industry, and how this seems to be reflected in the types of bookshops you can find in both cities.  With the monumental rise of on-line retailing, there's a certain manner of austere bookseller that feels outdated, because no matter how cheaply books can be bought on-line, or how many e-readers circulate, what Amazon and the like can't provide is community, a space. Also, small-scale printing seems to be on the rise in both cities and this is something really wonderful.

How did you two meet and what’s your love story?

​We met at a Kate Bush concert. ​ No, we met in a bookshop, of course.  Ah, something like that: we don't want to give too much away!

What kind of people come to your bookshop?

​Well, we already mentioned our neighbours, but there's a healthy balance of tourists and locals.  Spanish students, students of Spanish, teachers of all languages, slowly perambulating octogenarians, Camino hikers, American bikers, hens on weekends, the rebellious youth. We had a reader from the Fiji Islands just a while ago, who has a bookshop/café on the beach there and bought some stock. ​


Customers are invited to punch out poems on an old typewriter. Photo: Sophia Smith Galer

What’s the deal with the typewriter ?

Well it's partly a little fun but also about taking the time to sit and write, and we think that there's something quietly important about this, about 'taking time', whether it's simply a punctuation mark in the day or hours spent pouring over something. Also, we're very aware that it could become something very kitsch, a bit of literary glitter, and you have to work for this not to happen, to take it seriously and to sit down and write something in good faith. People seem to take it this way, too, and we've already a handsome collection of poems.

Best moment so far since opening four months ago?

​We threw a 'boozy' event for Bloomsday, celebrating James Joyce's Ulysses, and that was really fun. We had friends from all over singing and reading in all languages and lots of folks slept in the bookshop afterwards. Otherwise, just hearing echoes from the wider world come back to us, customers who've had the place recommended or been sent on from one of our sister stores.  

What hopes do you have for the future?

Lots of dreamy thoughts that may or may not actually happen, like a​ literary magazine, film screenings, a Calle Campomanes street party, a cinema in the cellar, a disco-ball, a bookshop ball pool party, a book vending machine in the metro, and lots and lots of partnerships.

Desperate Literature, Calle Campomanes, 13, 28013 Madrid

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BOOKS

OPINION: ‘These are the things that make Madrid a celebration of daily life’

Did you know that a gin and tonic tastes better in Madrid than anywhere else in the world? This is just one of things that makes Spain's capital a place to love, according to author Soledad Fox Maura.

OPINION: 'These are the things that make Madrid a celebration of daily life'
Photo by Victor Garcia on Unsplash

Sometimes Madrid feels like a huge, sprawling city (i.e. if you’re on the M-40 highway), but if you manage to stay within the central part, and walk or use public transport, it can feel like a collection of charming, connected villages or small towns. I love the latter incarnation of the city because of its human scale, and the way it reflects organic urban growth.

When I was little my mother and grandfather would often point out a newly developed area, and tell me “There used to be nothing there. La Castellana was a dirt road where children went roller skating”or “The bus route that now goes to Pavones used to end right here at the Retiro Park. That was the end of that part of the city.”

Where there was nothing, new apartment blocks were built so that people could move out of crowded neighborhoods like Chueca. Flash forward a generation later and many of the people who grew up in those contemporary utopian developments with grassy areas and swimming pools would do anything for an apartment in Chueca and other central neighborhoods that came into their own and became the height of trendiness.

There were many empty building plots or solares in my childhood. These made the city seem even sunnier and brighter than it nearly always is. Over the years I have come to love new small neighborhoods that I have lived in, and discovered others along the way. Some of my favorite places are lifelong standards. My Madrid is a mix of a primal blueprint and constantly adapting to novelty and my changing tastes.

For many years, I studied flamenco at the Amor de Dios dance studios on the Calle Santa Isabel, just across from the Filmoteca de Madrid.The studios are on the second floor of the Mercado de San Antón. I always looked forward to walking through the market, seeing the varied stands, and enjoying the aroma of one of the best olive vendors in Madrid. Once upstairs, there was nothing but flamenco. Small and large studios, showing their wear and tear, but fully functioning and packed all day with students, mainly local, but some international, learning bulerías, or guitar, or cante jondo, or how to play the flamenco percussión instrument, el cajón.

The windows of one of the small classrooms looked onto the inner courtyard of a convent. I always wondered what the nuns thought of the racket we made. For an hour a day I could feel like a true bailaora and I always left the market with a delicious purchase, or some flowers, and a feeling of exhilaration. I hope that Amor de Dios—temporarily closed–survives the pandemic. It is such a magical madrileño institution, thanks to the hard work, passion, and arte of generations of teachers and students.

A perfect afternoon-evening for me would be a dance class with sevillano Juan Fernández, a movie at the filmoteca, and a quiet dinner at Vinoteca Moratín. Another favorite is the Renoir Retiro cinema (great selection of V.O. films) and then a bite (or two) at the bar of Catapa.


Photo: AFP

 

Of course I love the Prado, Thyssen, Reina Sofía, Caixa Forum—all so spectacular and so conveniently located in the same part of the city–and many other smaller museums. I have spent many hours at the Prado preparing to teach Spanish painting, and I don’t think there could be a nicer place to work. The museum’s library is also beautiful. 

I have a special weakness for Casa-Museos, like the Lazaro Galdiano and the Sorolla museums. It’s always wonderful to imagine how artists and collectors lived, and these beautiful properties with their gardens are like time machines that take us back to a luxurious version of Madrid where people lived in palacetes much like the hotels particuliers of Paris.

The Biblioteca Nacional is also one of my favorite places to study Spain’s past or find books and documents unavailable elsewhere. Just having access to the building and its collections is a privilege. The Residencia de Estudiantes is a semi-hidden cultural center with rosemary and lavender-lined walkways off of the Calle Serrano. It’s where Federico García Lorca, Buñuel, Dali (and many other notables) lived as students. Tip: not only does it have an intense program of evening events, it also has a wonderful, peaceful, sleek restaurant.

Madrid is a celebration of daily life. Basically, give me almost any madrileño barrio, and this could be defined as simply as a city block with a panadería, a farmacia, news agent, a couple of bars, a butcher, and a frutería, where my morning errands and breakfast (and sometimes even a second breakfast) can be taken care of, and I’m off to the races.

But nothing beats a mercado. After San Antón (which I have renamed the Flamenco market) my favorite is El Mercado de la Paz, built in 1882. It is not in my barrio, but it is close enough to walk to and once a week I go to have lunch at Casa Dani and buy a few special things.

Casa Dani, reknowned for its pincho de tortilla, is a small restaurant in the middle of the market and has no windows to the outside, but this doesn’t stop it from having the best menú del día in Madrid. The options change every day, but I can go for months with a salmorejo, lubina, and fresas con naranja. The affordable menú (which is not just menu with an accent on the “u”, but “prix-fixe”) changes daily and once in a while I will go for the sopa de cocido or the extravagant arroz con bogavante. One must arrive early or be prepared to wait in a long line. The construction workers and local office people who are regulars know exactly when to show up and accompany their meals with tinto con casera or cañas.


Photo: AFP

 

After all this eating and/or research at a library, I need to clear my mind, and get some fresh air. Many of my favorite destinations are just across the Retiro Park, so whenever I can I walk under the horse chestnut trees that line the wide promenades. The Retiro is large enough for me to take different routes every day. In May the book fair, Feria del Libro takes over and I like to go early in the morning before it gets mobbed to make my way through the infinite maze of vendors that set up shop. In other seasons, the international bookshop Desperate Literature on the Calle Campomames is a must.  Books, a park, and a pincho de tortilla just about cover the basics of an ideal life for me.

Look up at the city’s sky and it is an ever-changing series of blues that become lavender-tinged at sunset. The evening is the perfect time to wander around the Madrid de los Austrías—the gardens of the Príncipe de Anglona, the tabernas on the Cava Baja, and the lovely artisanal jewelry workshop that Helena Rohner has on the Calle del Almendro. Just the name of the street makes me happy. 

On another note, Madrid is a very easy city to love and leave. There are many nearby escapadas to be taken. Especially by AVE. The high speed train has revolutionized life in Spain, and in under 3 hours you can leave from the Atocha train station and be in the center of Barcelona, or in Sevilla or Córdoba. In 20 minutes you can be in Segovia (from Chamartín Station) and in the heat of summer I like to go to La Granja, just minutes from Segovia and home to an eigtheenth century former royal summer palace. The palace’s gardens are at an elevation of close to 1200 meters, and the temperature is notably cooler and clean. Even in August.

I often remember Langston Hughes’ description of Madrid during the Civil War. Bombs were falling, but people were out on the streets, and in bars drinking a beer if they could get their hands on one. After the 2008 economic crisis, a foreign journalist friend came to Madrid and was indeed skeptical about the financial woes of Spain, “All the bars and terrazas are full. Doesn’t look like a recession to me,”she said.

Madrid has survived difficult and tragic times—the Civil War, a decades-long dictatorship, financial and political crises, and most recently, the pandemic and the lockdown. It is mourning and witnessing ongoing Covid-19 deaths. And yet, madrileños are out on the street every day getting to work, looking after their families, and still enjoying the daily, simple pleasures the city offers. El mundo sigue.

On a final note, a gin and tonic tastes better in Madrid than anywhere else. Visitors have pointed this out to me over the years, and I agree. The tonic is always served in a little bottle (and not from one of those sad soda guns) and the lemons are fragrant. Is there more to the secret? Some people say the water in Madrid is especially delicious, so the ice also has a geographical advantage. Salud.

Soledad Fox Maura is a Professor of Spanish and Comparative Literature at Williams College. She has recently published articles in El País and Lit Hub, and her first novel, Madrid Again, was released in November 2020 by Arcade. The  MAdrid bookstore Desperate Literature will be hosting a virtual book launch on December 19th. More details HERE

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