Madrid big winner in new Michelin food guide
George Mills · 20 Nov 2014, 11:20
Published: 20 Nov 2014 11:20 GMT+01:00
In the end, the release of the new Michelin guide for Spain and Portugal played out as some had feared: no Spanish restaurants joined the exclusive fold of establishments with three Michelin stars, leaving the country with eight such establishments.
It was a result that dampened spirits during the launch of the guide in Marbella on Wednesday night, and the fact that only one Spanish restaurant — Aponiente in Cadiz, run by Ángel León — was awarded a second Michelin star didn't help.
However, the lack of movement at the very top of the culinary tree was balanced out by the debut of 19 restaurants in the latest Michelin guide.
With five of those in Madrid, this was also a big plug for the Spanish capital.
The rise of Madrid was, according to Spanish daily El País at least, thanks to the impulse provided by David Muñoz at the eccentric eatery DiverXO with its self-proclaimed "brutal" approach, where cooks accost diners with added ingredients mid-bite.
It seems like it's raining in Madrid," said Josep Roca of the trend, one of the three brothers who run Catalonia's El Celler de Can Roca, named in April as the second best restaurant in the world.
On the lack of movement at the top end of the gastronomic tree, meanwhile, the international director for the Michelin guides Michael Ellis was philosophical.
"There has been a stagnation, that's certain, but we can't create the stars ourselves," he said.
"On the other hand, in the future I see a new generation I see a generation full of dynamism and creativity."
Spain has eight restaurants with three Michelin stars, the same number as in Italy while France boast 26 and Japan 20.
New Michelin-starred restaurants in Spain
Andreu Genestra (Capdepera/Mallorca)
Can Dani (San Ferran de ses Boques-Formentera)
Casa Manolo (Daimús/Valencia)
El Carmen de Montesión (Toledo)
El Retiro (Pancar-Llanes-Asturias)
Kazán (Santa Cruz de Tenerife)
La Cabra (Madrid)
La Lobita (Navaleno/Soria)
Montia (San Lorenzo del Escorial/Madrid)
Punto MX (Madrid)
Refectorio (Sardón de Duero/Valladolid)
Simply Fosh (Huesca)
Tatau Bistr (Huesca)